So awhile back, when a buddy of mine said to me why don’t I give piggyback a shot when it didn’t do much for him as he said it created some Christmas lights in his ride (YES! Check lights came on!) … and I was wondering to myself … if it didn’t work for his ride, why would mine work too??? In all honesty, he wanted to do a proper ECU tuning at one of the tuning houses, so I said, why not?

To cut the long story short, months went by and it was in the boot (kinda forgotten in the midst of my busy schedule). I have to say, one meetup at GarageTPY is all it takes … to rekindle that burning fire.

Many have been said on the more popular RaceChip and many have done it on their rides with happy faces and satisfied grins. Some yearned for that Need-for-Speed like that buddy of mine that they have gone full-fledge tuning! So I guess it all depends on what you’re gunning for … 😛 So I’m not going into the debate which is better.

Without further ado, let’s go into the installation as there wasn’t any guidebook or videos on Youtube to show you the way. Alas … we do have and the good folks at 2GATers who are ever ready in sharing!

Car model: 216d GT (F46)

Step 1

Remove the Air Intake by unscrewing the bolts with a Size 10 wrench circled in green. Press down the clip on the part where it connects to the air filter box (green square).

Step 2

Remove the engine cover by popping it upwards. You will then see the Resonator connected to the air pipe directly behind it which is basically the flat black plastic resting above the cylinder head. You will need to unscrew with a Torx screwdriver/wrench – there are 3 of them circled in green. Once removed, you will see a sponge-like heat insulator. Remove that and place them safely on one side.

Step 3

The engine bay will now look like the above …for those who are looking at it for the first time, DON’T FRET! Take your time and slowly identify the 3 main parts that you will connect the Power Control cables to. ie.:

Rail Pressure Sensor
Camshaft Sensor
Boost Pressure Sensor (highlighted in green box within the yellow box)

Step 4

Unplug these 3 identified sensors by pulling out the grey tab. You may have to use a little force on it and yank the sensors out of the sockets.

The Power Control harness will have 3 pairs of cables with 1 main socket for the Power Control Unit. They are clearly labelled on the coloured stickers for each of the sensors.

Image Credits:

To understand how it is being plugged in, here’s a video by DTE Power Control:

Step 5

Now once you have plugged all of them in, ensure you cable tie any loose cables and housekeep them.

Put back the heat insulator, air resonator box, and engine cover. Then fixed back the air intake box and you should be done!

First housekeeping. Wasn’t too happy with the visible cables on top but it will do for Day 1.
Second housekeeping – much better! No more snaking cables all around!
Ensure you cable tie them so they don’t dangle in the engine bay dangerously!

So there you have it!
Time taken was roughly 30mins. Experienced hands in GarageTPY should do within 20mins! haa … no pressure folks! 😉

So quick review on it … as I’ve not put it on a dyno machine, but my Butt-dyno and digital power/torque meters do tell me its an immediate improvement from pre-Piggyback days.

Urgency is there and the beast, as they call it, is raring to be released …. hence … its gonna be hard to tame the accelerator pedal!

For more information on the Power Control unit and where to get it, head over to the website: – Power Control Manual